It is the last day. And you know what, the clouds are all over the sky. So no sun total. Of all days, there was no sun when our 3-day pass has expired and we didnt plan any temples visit today. We just took a tuk tuk go to town for light shopping and had one last foot massage at the same shop. I bought some t-shirts and food. Then we went to another restaurant at Pub Street to settle our lunches. Pretty good food again. Went back to hotel to use the pool...finally. water was cold tho. and oily. Must be people like us who just had foot massages jumped right into the pool that's why.
The tuk tuk driver came and picked us up to the airport. It wasn't a long ride. We bought corns for light dinner before boarding. The meals on the plane is so light that it hardly fill any part of my stomach. On hindsight, should have done the Medan style with EK last time, have a sumptious meal before catching the flight haha.
The Siem Reap airport is quite modern. It gets busy as many flights from nearby Vietnam fly off at this time. The queue for Silkair is so long we are thankful we can queue at another empty counter since we have done internet check-in. Have to pay 25 dollars US for airport tax. Thats quite a hefty sum for normal cambodians i think.
As the silkair flight flew off, i have to say good bye siem reap and may we meet again!
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Wednesday, January 26, 2011
Temples far away (11 Jan 2011)
We had a secret deal with the tuktuk driver that chauffered Nick: to bring us to Angkor Wat for sunrise one more time. He came at 5am. The difference is, he wore a jacket this time. While the two of us were just in plain t-shirt. As he started the journey out, we felt really cold. We practically froze out in the tuk tuk haha. Early morning the Siem Reap people already started cycling, jogging, one tuk tuk driver even practising martial arts on the street. We reached Angkor Wat in 15 minutes but this time round, no starry night. The sky was clouded. We didn't sit at the entrance this time. We went straight to the ponds and sat at the edge. We were kinda early. One could hear occasional sound made by fish and toads leaped in and out of the pond.
The sunrise came at the same time as Sunday's but somehow the crowd was less. Understandable cos' Sunday was a much busier day for Angkor Wat. We took the tuk tuk back to the hotel for breakfast and on the way saw many school children cycled to school.
The driver brought us a new guide to replace Ly. His name is... Today we were supposed to go to some far away temples.
The first temple we went to was Banteay Srei. 1000 years old and still standing strong.
Then we went for lunch.
After lunch, the climb to is by far the most strenuous activity for the whole of Angkor Wat trip. All the climbs of stairs to the temples were chicken feat compared to this. Even the walk up the hill to Phnom Bakheng was easy in comparison. We were going to hiked 1500m to see the hindu relics at the stream.
Luckily the trees shaded us from the hot weather.
Umbrella Rock
Linga - What is a linga?
Had coconut water again to chill the body after the hike.
Went back to Angkor Wat to listen to some of the stories on the bas-reliefs one more time. This time round we entered from the back gate of Angkor Wat. We missed this part of Angkor Wat on the first day. It resembled the long mile that lead one to Windsor Castle. The soothing late afternoon sun was comfortable and make photographing so much easier.
Paid the driver and the guide and tipped them as well.
Went to try foot massage at another place. The lady who stood at the street to canvass for biz was quite cute and for a moment we thought she would be the one massaging our feet till the girls told us that she is the cashier and need not do the dirty work. Sigh. USD5 for a session. This one was really good. We were so glad we found a shop that offer respectable foot massage finally.
We went to a different restaurant for dinner today. Temple. Good food and all. They even have absara dancing to go with the food at the second level.
BBQ
Beer.
Sat at second floor can oversee the busy pub streets.
Even have absara dancing
Took a tuk tuk back to the hotel, happy and contented. By far the best meal we had.
The sunrise came at the same time as Sunday's but somehow the crowd was less. Understandable cos' Sunday was a much busier day for Angkor Wat. We took the tuk tuk back to the hotel for breakfast and on the way saw many school children cycled to school.
The driver brought us a new guide to replace Ly. His name is... Today we were supposed to go to some far away temples.
The first temple we went to was Banteay Srei. 1000 years old and still standing strong.
Then we went for lunch.
After lunch, the climb to is by far the most strenuous activity for the whole of Angkor Wat trip. All the climbs of stairs to the temples were chicken feat compared to this. Even the walk up the hill to Phnom Bakheng was easy in comparison. We were going to hiked 1500m to see the hindu relics at the stream.
Luckily the trees shaded us from the hot weather.
Umbrella Rock
Linga - What is a linga?
Had coconut water again to chill the body after the hike.
Went back to Angkor Wat to listen to some of the stories on the bas-reliefs one more time. This time round we entered from the back gate of Angkor Wat. We missed this part of Angkor Wat on the first day. It resembled the long mile that lead one to Windsor Castle. The soothing late afternoon sun was comfortable and make photographing so much easier.
Paid the driver and the guide and tipped them as well.
Went to try foot massage at another place. The lady who stood at the street to canvass for biz was quite cute and for a moment we thought she would be the one massaging our feet till the girls told us that she is the cashier and need not do the dirty work. Sigh. USD5 for a session. This one was really good. We were so glad we found a shop that offer respectable foot massage finally.
We went to a different restaurant for dinner today. Temple. Good food and all. They even have absara dancing to go with the food at the second level.
BBQ
Beer.
Sat at second floor can oversee the busy pub streets.
Even have absara dancing
Took a tuk tuk back to the hotel, happy and contented. By far the best meal we had.
More temples today (10 Jan 2011)
We had our first buffet breakfasts in the hotel this morning, missed it previously due to Angkor Wat morning sunrise chasing. Quite a moderate spread. We ate and then moved out to meet Nick for today's temples visit. Ly made a surprising appearance as we thought he would have gone to take the German tourists. We were happy that he could meet us.
We first went to another Tomb raider movie-scenes related temple - Ta Som. Ly pointed out many locations within the temple where the movie was filmed.
Quiz: Why is there a missing brick in the temple wall?
You have to give it to the guides. They can handle the SLRs better than all of us. The above photo was taken by one of the guide effortlessly. Within 0.5 seconds, single hand and we didnt even tho he was already done.
After the big 3 yesterday (Angkor Wat, Angkor Tom and Ta Phrom), we kinda set our expectation low today. So when East Mebon appeared in front of us, we were kinda stunned.
Aren't the door frames look like a National Geographic Magazine cover border?? And to think that this temple exist earlier than Angkor Wat and yet preserved in such a state, is totally mind bogling. I love East Mebon. It is such a well-preserved temple.
There is this beautiful lady who asked me to photo her when she sat on the door frame. I couldnt resist but have to pass this opportunity to EK who is much better than I with SLRs. She literally made the door frame came alive. Purple is always a nice colour to go with East Mebon red bricks. I dare not use my digital to capture her and the door less I get into trouble that i least prepared for haha. At the top of the temple, you can see the top of Angkor Wat.
If you have East Mebon, you surely have West Mebon, eh? Read on and you will know where it is.
It was such a hot day that I ordered a coconut.
This coconut is the sweetest i have ever tasted in Siem Reap. We went on to the restaurant for lunch. Passed by a moat which the driver told us has a submerged temple ruins, now left only the base, only visible in dry season where the water level is low.
It was here that we have our lunch and nua (relax) until 3 plus. I almost fell asleep under such intense heat and lazy afternoon atmosphere.
We went on to visit the smallest and the oldest temple that most tourists from Angkor Wat will just zoom past without even stopping.
Dog with two noses
Tree with my name.
After that we went to our last destination today: Phnom Bakheng, THE place where everybody gather to see the sunset.
We need to walk up a hill (or take elephant).
So many peep sat on one corner of the temple that i fear for the stability of the temple honestly.
We can see the Angkor Wat temple from one corner.
West Mebon in the middle of reservoir.
We were chatting with Ly about the dark years under Khmer Rouge while waiting for the sunset that will only come 1.5 hours later earliest. From 7 million peep, the population of Cambodia dwindled to 4 million from 1975-1979, barely 4 years in power. 3 million people killed by these basterds omg. Mostly intellectuals and intelligent people. Ly also pointed out that scenes depicted by the movie The Killing Field were inaccurate. There were being dramatised. It wasn't like that in real life. The Khmer Rough people managed to con the city folks out of Phnom Penh within days because they told them a lie: that the americans will bomb the city and they need to leave the house for 3 days. Since it is only for 3 days most people just lock their house and leave. Most of them never get to return to their house in the city.
Nick managed to get himself a good location and we joined him. From where we sit, we can see Siem Reap Airport which is at the west. Sunset was magnificent, like a red giant fireball went down the horizon. There were these 2 groups of people in front of me that quarreled in front of me over sitting location, hilarious.
Nick suggest that we walked down before the sky turn entirely dark. Mass exodus once the sun has set.
We went back to town for dinner and beer. I told the van driver no need to wait for us tonight. Nick is leaving for Phnom Penh tomorrow. We will be our own tomorrow as Ly is definitely not with us. We went for foot massages after the dinner. Ek was not too impressed with their massage skills. Took tuktuk back to hotel, only 1 US dollar each.
We first went to another Tomb raider movie-scenes related temple - Ta Som. Ly pointed out many locations within the temple where the movie was filmed.
Quiz: Why is there a missing brick in the temple wall?
You have to give it to the guides. They can handle the SLRs better than all of us. The above photo was taken by one of the guide effortlessly. Within 0.5 seconds, single hand and we didnt even tho he was already done.
After the big 3 yesterday (Angkor Wat, Angkor Tom and Ta Phrom), we kinda set our expectation low today. So when East Mebon appeared in front of us, we were kinda stunned.
Aren't the door frames look like a National Geographic Magazine cover border?? And to think that this temple exist earlier than Angkor Wat and yet preserved in such a state, is totally mind bogling. I love East Mebon. It is such a well-preserved temple.
There is this beautiful lady who asked me to photo her when she sat on the door frame. I couldnt resist but have to pass this opportunity to EK who is much better than I with SLRs. She literally made the door frame came alive. Purple is always a nice colour to go with East Mebon red bricks. I dare not use my digital to capture her and the door less I get into trouble that i least prepared for haha. At the top of the temple, you can see the top of Angkor Wat.
If you have East Mebon, you surely have West Mebon, eh? Read on and you will know where it is.
It was such a hot day that I ordered a coconut.
This coconut is the sweetest i have ever tasted in Siem Reap. We went on to the restaurant for lunch. Passed by a moat which the driver told us has a submerged temple ruins, now left only the base, only visible in dry season where the water level is low.
It was here that we have our lunch and nua (relax) until 3 plus. I almost fell asleep under such intense heat and lazy afternoon atmosphere.
We went on to visit the smallest and the oldest temple that most tourists from Angkor Wat will just zoom past without even stopping.
Dog with two noses
Tree with my name.
After that we went to our last destination today: Phnom Bakheng, THE place where everybody gather to see the sunset.
We need to walk up a hill (or take elephant).
So many peep sat on one corner of the temple that i fear for the stability of the temple honestly.
We can see the Angkor Wat temple from one corner.
West Mebon in the middle of reservoir.
We were chatting with Ly about the dark years under Khmer Rouge while waiting for the sunset that will only come 1.5 hours later earliest. From 7 million peep, the population of Cambodia dwindled to 4 million from 1975-1979, barely 4 years in power. 3 million people killed by these basterds omg. Mostly intellectuals and intelligent people. Ly also pointed out that scenes depicted by the movie The Killing Field were inaccurate. There were being dramatised. It wasn't like that in real life. The Khmer Rough people managed to con the city folks out of Phnom Penh within days because they told them a lie: that the americans will bomb the city and they need to leave the house for 3 days. Since it is only for 3 days most people just lock their house and leave. Most of them never get to return to their house in the city.
Nick managed to get himself a good location and we joined him. From where we sit, we can see Siem Reap Airport which is at the west. Sunset was magnificent, like a red giant fireball went down the horizon. There were these 2 groups of people in front of me that quarreled in front of me over sitting location, hilarious.
Nick suggest that we walked down before the sky turn entirely dark. Mass exodus once the sun has set.
We went back to town for dinner and beer. I told the van driver no need to wait for us tonight. Nick is leaving for Phnom Penh tomorrow. We will be our own tomorrow as Ly is definitely not with us. We went for foot massages after the dinner. Ek was not too impressed with their massage skills. Took tuktuk back to hotel, only 1 US dollar each.
Lucky Stars! (9 Jan 2011)
The morning call came at 430am (Singapore time 530am). We took the van to buy our 3-day pass for Angkor Wat complex.
Got our photos taken on the pass when we looked like zombies. Continued on with our journey. Finally reached what we think is the entrance of Angkor Wat. Scores of carts selling hot drinks and buns gathered near the entrance. Pitch dark. I took out my little torch light which I had prepared well in advance, which always came as a rescue everywhere i go. I found that many people started to trail behind me since i now carry the light. You are welcome guys, no need to thank me haha!
I swear i never see skyline like this before. Totally clear and starry. Like u trying to squeeze so many so many stars into a small piece of sky that it appeared cramped. U hardly had any space to put in another star. Brilliant sky. U can never see this in Singapore.
We managed to find what we thought is an ideal spot (terrace near the entrance) for taking the photograph of Angkor Wat in the sunrise. We found out later that the best spot is actually in front of the ponds, but thats beside the point. We were so proud of ourselves we refuse to venture further. It was still pretty early, only 5am. At the rate it is going, sunrise will not come until 630am i think. In fact it only came at 7 plus.
Once the eyes got use to the darkness, you can make out the outline of the distinct 3 towers of Angkor Wat. There should be 5, but most photos will show 3. We just sat down quietly. Occasionally one of two or few tourists from u-noe-where trying to destroy the silence by their high pitch decibel noise but otherwise it was ok.
It is at this time i realise that there was this guide explaining a lot of things to the angmo sitting next to me. I can't make how how he looked like but the explanation by the guide was so interesting that, it helped me to pass time. It was quite a treat to have stories being told while waiting for the sun to rise. During their conversation pause, I gathered my courage and asked the guy next to me: hi, how much does ur guide cost? he promptly answered, US25 a day and it is really worth it. Then I asked him, is it ok if me and my friend EK share a guide with you? Then he said: cost sharing basis? sure, let me ask the guide. Apparently the guide is ok with three of us splitting his cost. So there we are, we were adopted by a guide finally!! As the sky lighten up, I finally know how he looks like. His name is Nick, came from Australia and now on his vacation, also a photograph enthusiast who carry Nikon D90. Also his first day in Siem Reap. He only have two days unlike us. So today marked the beginning of OUR tour.
The first ray of sun light started to streak down and the towers of Angkor Wat started to glow. People started to get excited. It was a magnificent view. The sky is clear today, we are real lucky. According to the guide (Mr.Ly, pronounced as Lee) the day before was not as good.
After that we moved to the ponds where everybody congregated to capture the Angkor Wat sunrise. It is then that we realise more people gathered here as this is THE place to take the sunrise photo. Angkor Wat in front of the ponds is where a good photo is made.
We proceed on to the Angkor Wat complex to understand the stories of the many bas-reliefs. The stories are really amazing. Every now and then, you will see bullet holes and blood stains that remind you of the numerous civil wars that Cambodia has gone through. I shant repeat the bas-relief stories here, as there are all available in guide books and websites, just some photos and footnotes to share here.
After the visit to Angkor Wat, we went out for brekkie. I told the driver that we have met an old friend and asked him to follow Nick's tuk-tuk driver. We then proceed to the next temple, Bayon and Baphuon. Before that we have to go through a gate. There are five gates altogether.
Many faces cast in stones.
Bas-relief about how the Khmer soldiers fought with the Cham (Vietnam) soldiers. Our guide Ly.
We proceed on to another temple. This temple is quite high. We need to climb stairs to go up to the top of temple.
As I was walking down, an angmo guy trying to take a picture of his wife walking down the steep staircase.
I realised that and I retraced my step so that he can take a picture without me inside. After he took the photo, he shouted in italian : gratzie! I smiled from the top and replied in Italian : prego! the whole italian group was totally estatic on hearing someone asian looking replied in his home language. As i finally reached the ground, he came forward and shook my hand and thanked me profusely. I jokingly asked, u managed to take my photo? he laughed and said : Ooooof course, and it cost a dollar! Almost everything in siem reap come at a small cost of a dollar haha so we tourists always try to ask each other for a dollar to mock the Siem Reap people lol. Such was the interesting little story while descending the steep staircase.
Now a quiz for you: what does the name Siem Reap actually mean?
Mid day sun is totally unbearable. Hot sun + no cloud = super hot.
We decided to break for lunch. To thank Nick for sharing us his guide made our day so wonderful, we offered to buy him beer. Lunch at town centre is so much better: cheaper and better food. Khmer Kitchen food is good. Much better than the one we had last night. All our meals from now on will be at the town centre.
We went on to the Tomb Raider temple - Ta Phrom. This is the wild wild land. Trees grow on the temple haha. Ownage!
Ly told us that different language tour guides will fetch different price. English and mandarin speaking tour guides will fecth about US25-30 dollars a day. German speaking tour guide will fetch US35 dollars a day. Other languages like italians and russians will fetch even higher price, and need to be booked well in advance. Since he knows both English and German, his preference is to take german tourists and get higher pay. Very likely that he will have german tourists tomorrow and couldnt bring us. On hearing this, we were nervous as we were not sure if other guides are as knowledeagle and friendly like him. We asked him to try at least make it tomorrow. He said he will consider and it all depends on whether the german tourists group will come tomorrow.
We finished the day pretty early. Went back to the hotel to concuss. The driver drove us to a massage place for foot massage. Not that good though. We have came to the conclusion that the driver's recommendation is really not up to the mark. We shall just used his car only from now on.
Went to the same restaurant for dinner again but this time they have night time bbq. We ordered the bbq and ate till our heart content. Draught beer at 50 cents!! Tiger is quite a popular brand here beside Angkor beer.
After the dinner we walked around the town. Very happening place. Such a far cry from the quiet restaurant that we were brought to yesterday. The night scene is vibrant. They have a pedestrian street called Pub Street where no cars are allowed in the evening. Many restaurants lined up the street and some claimed to be recommended by Lonely Planet. EK said we should gave them a try the next day. After some walk about, we took the van back to hotel.
Got our photos taken on the pass when we looked like zombies. Continued on with our journey. Finally reached what we think is the entrance of Angkor Wat. Scores of carts selling hot drinks and buns gathered near the entrance. Pitch dark. I took out my little torch light which I had prepared well in advance, which always came as a rescue everywhere i go. I found that many people started to trail behind me since i now carry the light. You are welcome guys, no need to thank me haha!
I swear i never see skyline like this before. Totally clear and starry. Like u trying to squeeze so many so many stars into a small piece of sky that it appeared cramped. U hardly had any space to put in another star. Brilliant sky. U can never see this in Singapore.
We managed to find what we thought is an ideal spot (terrace near the entrance) for taking the photograph of Angkor Wat in the sunrise. We found out later that the best spot is actually in front of the ponds, but thats beside the point. We were so proud of ourselves we refuse to venture further. It was still pretty early, only 5am. At the rate it is going, sunrise will not come until 630am i think. In fact it only came at 7 plus.
Once the eyes got use to the darkness, you can make out the outline of the distinct 3 towers of Angkor Wat. There should be 5, but most photos will show 3. We just sat down quietly. Occasionally one of two or few tourists from u-noe-where trying to destroy the silence by their high pitch decibel noise but otherwise it was ok.
It is at this time i realise that there was this guide explaining a lot of things to the angmo sitting next to me. I can't make how how he looked like but the explanation by the guide was so interesting that, it helped me to pass time. It was quite a treat to have stories being told while waiting for the sun to rise. During their conversation pause, I gathered my courage and asked the guy next to me: hi, how much does ur guide cost? he promptly answered, US25 a day and it is really worth it. Then I asked him, is it ok if me and my friend EK share a guide with you? Then he said: cost sharing basis? sure, let me ask the guide. Apparently the guide is ok with three of us splitting his cost. So there we are, we were adopted by a guide finally!! As the sky lighten up, I finally know how he looks like. His name is Nick, came from Australia and now on his vacation, also a photograph enthusiast who carry Nikon D90. Also his first day in Siem Reap. He only have two days unlike us. So today marked the beginning of OUR tour.
The first ray of sun light started to streak down and the towers of Angkor Wat started to glow. People started to get excited. It was a magnificent view. The sky is clear today, we are real lucky. According to the guide (Mr.Ly, pronounced as Lee) the day before was not as good.
After that we moved to the ponds where everybody congregated to capture the Angkor Wat sunrise. It is then that we realise more people gathered here as this is THE place to take the sunrise photo. Angkor Wat in front of the ponds is where a good photo is made.
We proceed on to the Angkor Wat complex to understand the stories of the many bas-reliefs. The stories are really amazing. Every now and then, you will see bullet holes and blood stains that remind you of the numerous civil wars that Cambodia has gone through. I shant repeat the bas-relief stories here, as there are all available in guide books and websites, just some photos and footnotes to share here.
After the visit to Angkor Wat, we went out for brekkie. I told the driver that we have met an old friend and asked him to follow Nick's tuk-tuk driver. We then proceed to the next temple, Bayon and Baphuon. Before that we have to go through a gate. There are five gates altogether.
Many faces cast in stones.
Bas-relief about how the Khmer soldiers fought with the Cham (Vietnam) soldiers. Our guide Ly.
We proceed on to another temple. This temple is quite high. We need to climb stairs to go up to the top of temple.
As I was walking down, an angmo guy trying to take a picture of his wife walking down the steep staircase.
I realised that and I retraced my step so that he can take a picture without me inside. After he took the photo, he shouted in italian : gratzie! I smiled from the top and replied in Italian : prego! the whole italian group was totally estatic on hearing someone asian looking replied in his home language. As i finally reached the ground, he came forward and shook my hand and thanked me profusely. I jokingly asked, u managed to take my photo? he laughed and said : Ooooof course, and it cost a dollar! Almost everything in siem reap come at a small cost of a dollar haha so we tourists always try to ask each other for a dollar to mock the Siem Reap people lol. Such was the interesting little story while descending the steep staircase.
Now a quiz for you: what does the name Siem Reap actually mean?
Mid day sun is totally unbearable. Hot sun + no cloud = super hot.
We decided to break for lunch. To thank Nick for sharing us his guide made our day so wonderful, we offered to buy him beer. Lunch at town centre is so much better: cheaper and better food. Khmer Kitchen food is good. Much better than the one we had last night. All our meals from now on will be at the town centre.
We went on to the Tomb Raider temple - Ta Phrom. This is the wild wild land. Trees grow on the temple haha. Ownage!
Ly told us that different language tour guides will fetch different price. English and mandarin speaking tour guides will fecth about US25-30 dollars a day. German speaking tour guide will fetch US35 dollars a day. Other languages like italians and russians will fetch even higher price, and need to be booked well in advance. Since he knows both English and German, his preference is to take german tourists and get higher pay. Very likely that he will have german tourists tomorrow and couldnt bring us. On hearing this, we were nervous as we were not sure if other guides are as knowledeagle and friendly like him. We asked him to try at least make it tomorrow. He said he will consider and it all depends on whether the german tourists group will come tomorrow.
We finished the day pretty early. Went back to the hotel to concuss. The driver drove us to a massage place for foot massage. Not that good though. We have came to the conclusion that the driver's recommendation is really not up to the mark. We shall just used his car only from now on.
Went to the same restaurant for dinner again but this time they have night time bbq. We ordered the bbq and ate till our heart content. Draught beer at 50 cents!! Tiger is quite a popular brand here beside Angkor beer.
After the dinner we walked around the town. Very happening place. Such a far cry from the quiet restaurant that we were brought to yesterday. The night scene is vibrant. They have a pedestrian street called Pub Street where no cars are allowed in the evening. Many restaurants lined up the street and some claimed to be recommended by Lonely Planet. EK said we should gave them a try the next day. After some walk about, we took the van back to hotel.
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